To reach El Rosario from Angangueo you have to haggle a ride in a four-wheel drive from one of the locals. We started out negotiations with a group of unappealing young gentlemen that were demanding 500 pesos, well over the standard rate of $30 (about 300 pesos) suggested in our guidebook. We countered with the 300 rate and suddenly a pleasant looking middle-aged man materialized and immediately accepted our rate, so we were off with our driver Diego in his tattered old Suburban, but it plowed right though all the muddy ruts and got the job done. As we twisted further up into the hills you could feel yourself getting deeper and deeper into a much older culture hidden in the countryside: it reminded me very much of the villages in the foothills in Nepal.

On the road from Angangueo to El Rosario, Michoacan, Mexico - December 30, 2000